The Nuremberg Christmas Market opened on December 1st 2023 and runs until 2pm on Christmas Eve. **** On a late afternoon of nipping chill, in a city square in the heart of Europe, I found the antidote to brash, glitzy, overblown, commercial Christmas. As the daylight ebbed, a cheerful glow pulsed up from the… Continue reading
Browsing Category Travel Features
Newport Beach mixes high style with free marvel
I wrote this article in 2012. Since then, because of the climate crisis, I have decided to fly as infrequently as possible – two flights since the start of 2020. It is ridiculous to expect people to give up flying altogether. But if many people resolved to fly less, that would help. In the meantime… Continue reading →
Strolling the mountains around Lake Uri, with super-helpful signposts
This is an update of a piece of mine originally published in The Times. In a gloomy recess in Ingenbohl Forest above Lake Uri, a buttercup yellow arrow beamed cheerfully out of a monochrome background. “Trust me,” it seemed to say. “I’m a Swiss signpost.” Think of a cartographical St Bernard, proffering reassurance, guidance and,… Continue reading →
Syria – when it was last at peace
Ten years ago, in March 2011, peaceful protests against President Bashar Assad’s government began in Syria. Before long a popular uprising turned into full-blown civil war, and unspeakable violence against civilians. In 2021 Syria is economically devastated and divided, its populations dispersed and desperate, but Assad remains firmly in control. I visited Syria in its last… Continue reading →
The Singular Case of the Portsmouth Doctor – or Sherlock takes the train
Feb 23rd, 2021. Another in my series of easy, post-lockdown trips to take in the UK. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle set his Sherlock Holmes stories all over England, but you can follow the trail of both Doyle and Holmes, without leaving London. If you want to make one trip out of the capital, it has… Continue reading →
Feather in Portugal’s cap as barrel bird takes off
“If you want a lemon for your G and T, just go into the garden a pick one,” said Jenny. “But watch out for the nazgul!” Actually she didn’t mention the nazgul as I set out in search of the pure citrus experience, but maybe she should have. Rare birds soar and flap and flit… Continue reading →